Weather fine
The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia
Woke to realise the ship was moving into the harbour area already. We dressed quickly to be on deck as we arrived back into harbour.
Had a full solid breakfast with two of the expedition staff, Sean and Phil and organised our bags ready for disembarkation. As always this happens all to quickly and before we knew it we were on the pier and ready for the next stage of our journey. Who would think that all would be over in a a blink?
We arranged for a taxi to take us to our guest house which is on the Beagle Channel and although comfortable feels as though we are in the middle of a highway.
David and I decided to catch the small train which travels into the national park and was a great delight and surprise. Small engines pull the carriages on a journey which commemorates the train the prisoners were put on as they were taken to the goal in the area. [as bad as Alcatraz so they say].
With snow tipped mountains and icy streams it was a surprisingly enjoyable jaunt.
We then taxied into town and walked around buying the delicious chocolates that are made here and had a meal which was a bit disappointing as David and I think we were given incorrect food orders but the waiters were so busy and rather fierce and anyway when one has a packet of delicious chocolate as well as hot chocolate in hand who really cares?
In the afternoon we returned to the ‘garage’ hotel and relaxed a bit only to return to the travel agent to organise our Sunday. We have chosen to visit the Husky farm and the lakes further out into the countryside which will be another treat.
We watched the Clipper Adventurer steam out of the harbour at about seven this evening not without some heart pangs and once again enjoyed a spectacular meal at the restaurant overlooking the harbour where I ended the meal with palette pleasing calafate icecream.
I now write this as trucks, buses and cars trundle past the window at about midnight. The sun still glowers in the sky and hopefully we will have another spectacular weather day.
Weather: Seas still unsettled. During the night the ship almost jumped out of the ocean.
Lectures: from whalers to whale watchers.
Chatted to various guests and made firm contacts as a few would like to go to Greenland.
We had a fine farewell dinner with the ship anchored safely in the Beagle Channel. The sun set was colourful over the channel and the skies heavy and turbulent but the weather was fine.
The captain toasted the ship and the voyage and we had a good few moments of reflection as well as time to say our farewells to all we needed to. We find it is always better to greet everyone the night before departure as departure days are completely chaotic.
Dinner was delicious with prawns, a delicious salad, beef or meat and Baked Antarctica [not Alaska]. We sat with Eva and Morrie who will definitely be visiting us in South Africa sometime soon. A great couple, Eva is the Hotel Manager who does such a great job organising staff, meals and the dining room.
We made several toasts and everyone had a fine farewell dinner. The waiters brought in the dessert with much fun and laughter which was a fitting ending.
"Great Things have small Beginnings." Francis Drake.
Weather: Sea unsettled. Rolling and rollicking.
The Drake Passage
No early wake up call and many people under the weather. Social life was very limited as most people kept to their cabins.
The ship is completely battened down and guests are not permitted onto the outside decks.
Lectures were held and David and I presented an AV on icebergs which was well received. Extremely pleased as many people are ‘professional’ photographers. Perhaps DJ will now sell his pictures or at least put them into the market.
YES we did survive the Drake passage ordeal – but what remarkable waves we endured.
Weather: Fine overcast but chill
We had another unusual expedition onto Gourdin Bay where Weddell and Crab seals lolled on rocks and three kinds of penguins, gentoo, adele and chinstrap muddled about...
We did another zodiac cruise to try and spot a leopard seal, but had to return to the ship because of heavy seas.
At the moment we've been told that the seas are too rough for another landing and so we move onto Deception Island as we near the end of our trip. We have been told that no ships are going to South Georgia because of bad weather - so we really have been fortunate.
‘The World is only tolerable because of the empty spaces.’ Doris Lessing
Weather: Fine
Brown Bluff. Iceberg zodiac expedition.
Returned from the Antarctic Peninsula – another early morning wake up and breakfast with clear skies and sunshine. Did our official landing on the Antarctic continent and now can claim that we have now had foot on all seven continents!
Did an ice-berg cruise and would love a dress in the colours that reflect from sun to sea to ice. Almost edible. The sun is shining and we are almost HOT. We sit and chat with hot chocolate in our hands and with various people in the group, most amusing. Conversations range from American football to sheep farming in Tasmania. Use your imagination to conjour up the various twangs and intonations.
We had another wonderful braai on the deck last night. Surrounded by tabular icebergs, clear skies and sunshine this must have been the most unusual braai that we have ever participated in. Caribbean music played as the staff cooked delicious meat and we helped ourselves to salads and drank gluwien from paper cups.
Our group consisted of a South African couple from Benoni, an Israeli couple and ourselves. At one stage we were doing the ‘conga’ through the tables simply to keep our feet from falling off the end of our legs. We had the staff dancing with us and we put that day down as ‘one of the best’.
Early morning start onto the Zodiacs to land at Elephant Island. This is where the survivors stayed for five months waiting for Shackleton’s rescue. We are the first expedition ship to land here this year.
Towering glaciers, ice blue is the colour description. Fine icicles drip from the edges as they drift in the ocean.
The Zodiacs move from ship very easily and return just as easily. Once back at the ship the craft are hoisted up and checked so as to be ready for the next expedition.
Surrounded by icebergs and have just heard that due to the excellent weather conditions we have changed direction and are to visit Penguin Island before going to the Antarctic Peninsula. All being well we land there after dinner this evening. Another wonderful bonus.
After dinner we were called onto the bridge to see a pod of Orcas feeding. I have only ever seen orcas in movies and Sea World in Florida. These were swimming and foraging in ocean, coming up to breathe every now and then. The ship was silent as the captain turned her around so that we could view these magnificent dolphins.
We are now waiting to go on another expedition to Penguin Island. This is another ‘bonus’ excursion. Nine o’clock at night.
What an evening. We landed on the island which was covered in snow. Weddell fur seals lay on the snow with Chinstrap and Adele penguins crouched on the ice. One or two were most curious and poddled over tilted their heads and peered at the passengers.
Back on board and after a cup of hot chocolate we are now ready to sail onto to another amazing area.
We have been sailing all day in fair weather and no swells. Apparently this is remarkable weather for the area and we are ‘doing well’.
Whales were spotted off the port side [hammmm hmmmm that is the LEFT side for all you land-lubbers out there] and they were deemed to be Fin Whales who seemed to be on an eating spree and simply foraged around the boat keeping their mind on the right things.
We are in ice-berg country. The seas abound with these huge monoliths which are a piece of history floating on the ocean. This afternoon we passed a huge berg - with penguins perched on the one surface. The captain was good enough to circle it and we had this spectacular view of turquoise ice as is tipped into the ocean with a cerulean shelf which floated just under the surface of the ocean. Imagine a ball gown in the same colour with light ruches of aquamarine and white lace peeking as the skirt swirls.
We had another great dinner with a couple from New Mexico who enjoy sea-kayaking in the remote areas of Alaska. We have some wonderful tips for our next expedition [which has to be the northern Polar areas. Well we have the gear don’t we?]. Alaska and Greenland here we come!
We hope for an early start tomorrow as we are forging ahead so rapidly. The captain has to slow down because the weather is so good [can you believe it?] and we are approaching Elephant Island too quickly. This is the island that Shackleton and his men arrived at after their escape from the ice shelf after their ship broke up and sank. This is the place too, where the men remained for five months while Shackelton went to find assistance to get them all back home.
We will probably only have a Zodiac ride as there is little beach for landing, but as you know that is good enough for me!
Hopefully the captain will keep good watch in the next few days, as this is the land of the Ice Queen and many icebergs and much pack ice lies around and before us.
