We are on the ocean...

We are on the ocean – sailing in weather that [quote one crew member] is as good as it gets! The sun is shining and the ocean, while not steady-steady, is rolling steadily.

Before boarding yesterday we visited the Ushuaia National Park and were able to walk along board walks.

We viewed geese, still lakes, clear glacier filled rivers and the mountains of Chile and Argentina .

I sent a postcard from the most southerly post office, where the post master saw us arrive and zipped over in a Zodiac to do his duty. We had our passports stamped with his special stamp – all at a cost of course.

After an easy boarding, we were shown into our compact cabin from a drizzly and wet Ushuaia we were given a very brief briefing after which we went on deck and were nearly swept away by cheeky biting wind. Our bright yellow parkas will ensure that we will be visible on the ice and kept warm at the same time.

David had given me some medication for anti sea-sickness which made me float around the galleys like an albatross. Sitting chatting to David through the evening meal was a dream-like experience, not because I was mesmerised by his scintillating conversation, but because I was totally out of things!

I do not know if I undressed to sleep, but woke this morning still ‘out of it’ and eschewed any further of DJ’s ‘magic muti’! I did manage to dislodge the shower soap as I manoeuvred myself in the shower area, but after a hearty breakfast of cereal, eggs and smoked salmon I have recovered enough to walk on deck without fear of diving off the edge and now sit in the lounge surrounded by the crew and some fellow passengers, all of whom I look at and hope to goodness that they are competent enough to lead us through and crisis we might encounter.

The guests as always for me are almost more interesting than the wildlife.

We have ‘The Birders’ who, even though there are only ‘x’ number of birds to identify at any given spot, argue, dissect and ponder the siting. The conversations always end up with one of the ‘spotters sighing – ‘well, yes, yes, it has the eye-stripe so it must be the……………albatross.’

We then have ‘The Experts’, those who have been on an Antarctic cruise before where on the previous ship the food was better, the lecturers more erudite and the passage smoother. For me the passage so far has been smooth and fab and that’s good enough for me.

We also have the ‘team players’. Many Australians who have their green and yellow shirts on with kangaroos bounce about. The Israelis who talk ‘big’ and secretly and the Brits who put on the accent and treat everyone else like colonials. This lot may well set another sortie when they land on the Falklands.

Don’t let’s even talk about ‘The Photographers’ who discuss aperture, light and focus until all have disappeared into a cloud of grey.

The internet here is dodgy, with the satellite being behind the funnel, no one being cheeky enough to request that the captain turn the vessel for easier internet access. David has arrived with a cup of hot chocolate. I feel more ‘in the moment’ again...

Till next time.

From Johannesburg to Ushuaia

Greetings!

As I sit and write I look over Beagle Bay, mountains covered in snow and forests and know that we are at the furthest inhabited place on earth.

After a wonderful Christmas filled with the warmth of family and friends we were ready to leave for our Antarctic trip. From the moment we said good bye to our family after our now traditional 'group hug' we were ready to GO!

Elizabeth loaded us off at the airport in good time and from that moment, to when we arrived in Ushuaia we have not stopped being utterly amazed by the excitement and privilege of this adventure.

We had an easy check in at ORT - notwithstanding the fact that three [yes 3] international SAA flights were being checked in at the same time, at the same place. We were fortunate enough to be pushed ahead - perhaps our aged looks are finally being taken into account - and instead of waiting in line for another hour, we managed a fairly easy transfer, although I had checked in online the previous night, so perhaps that did help.

We had perfect seats and although we had two young children near us and one baby down the aisle, who objected loudly using great strength of lungs as we took off, our day flight to Argentina was fairly unexciting. Despite the enforced sleep pattern determined by the airline staff ["close the shutters until we tell you it is time to re-open" - I now know what the hyacinth bulbs we force in spring feel like] the plane flight pattern was so stable we barely felt we were moving.

Our pick up service was waiting for us as we walked through customs and we were whizzed through the beautiful wide and fairly empty Boulevard streets of a Sunday Buenos Aires. It seems that all drivers in Argentina drive as though they were driving Important People – so the maximum speed is used while passengers hold on to hand luggage and themselves as they are whirled around corners.

After a friendly welcome to the guest house we relaxed for what seemed like a few moments when the taxi from the Tango venue arrived to collect us. We were up and out within ten minutes changed and ready for a great evening, although for an hour or so my eyes felt as though they were still in South Africa.

We enjoyed a delicious meal. The waiter looked at me with raised eye-brows when I said that I was not happy to taste the Beef, but would be happy to try the trout. David enjoyed a meat pasty as a starter, which he declared good and noted that the eagerly awaited Beef was well worth the journey. For those of you who enjoy Gelati - I voted the ice-cream delicious.

At about ten o'clock we were escorted across the road to the Tango show - El Viejo Almacien - which was as exciting as we hoped it to be. The dancers [although very familiar with their routine] certainly did not allow the fire and drama of the dance to falter. The sultry sexiness of the movements were dramatic and exquisite. The dancers were beautiful and the evening was well worth the late night return.

Our early morning trek to the domestic airport took us through beautiful wide streets, past the race course to see to glimpse some horses on a training canter. We met up with some other South Africans who are also on the Quark tour. After a three hour flight we arrived in Ushuaia. Our hotel in is in the forests above the town and looks over the Beagle Channel.

For those of you who recall that programme set in Alaska in that funky small town with the interesting people who were all a little off the wall and the funky radio station and moose walking through the roads, this is very similar. Except here, instead of Inuits we have native Indians and odd eyed husky dogs. Most intriguing.

We had lunch at a cosy restaurant called Tant Sara where I sipped hot chocolate and David had a stout named after – yes you have guessed it The Beagle! As my eyes skirted through the menu I saw: mozzarella lolly pops, penguin choc lollies, cheese tarts and calafate ice-cream. Fascinating stuff!

We have been briefed for the tour and find that there are 8 South Africans with us. It is so very strange to be at the places we have read about for so long and although there is mail on the boat I am not sure when next I can update you.

As we walked through the town this afternoon we decided that we had just experienced a ‘Penguin’s Wedding’. Remember the monkeys wedding of our childhood - rain and sunshine? Well, we encountered snow and sunshine instead.

We board the ship at 16h00 tomorrow [Tuesday] afternoon for our great adventure. We are ready to go to a restaurant in town called Maria Lola. As I sign off at eight o’clock in the evening with no glimmer of sunset, I look at the clock on my Mac see that it is 00:58 in South Africa. I now understand why the curtains are such a heavy brocade.

Till next time.

Antarctica

We celebrated Christmas with our family and spent this warm summer's day relaxing and enjoying the heat. As a reminder for the moments in Antarctica when I wonder what on earth we are doing there!

We've bought the gear, packed the cases and David has loaded the cameras. I have 'Whispered' my books onto my Kindle and packed paints and books. Now all we need to do is board the plane for Buenos Aires on Sunday.

We then spend the night in Palermo on BA and fly to Ushuaia to board the Clipper Adventurer the next day for our 20 day excursion in Antarctica. I am excited and and daunted by the forthcoming adventure.

I will try to keep our travel notes throughout the trip.

Wishing you a great photographic 2010.