Boulevards, Fountains and the Tango

On the first night we were in BA we enjoyed a tango evening even though we had been awake for more than twenty hours by the time we fell on our beds. But the tango show was remarkable - lively, sexy and sensuous.

Who could resist yet another such evening on our third night in BA? More importantly this experience included a tango lesson. Well with much trepidation we were collected by the shuttle bus and taken into town. We were ushered into the dance studio and our minute dance instructor introduced herself to us. Totally bilingual [Spanish and English] she proceeded to persuade the most reluctant of us onto the floor and even managed to teach us the eight basic tango steps. More importantly she even made us believe that we COULD tango. Starting with a simple walk and being harangued into stepping as though we were tango dancers, she had us moving around the studio like professionals. Such is the power of a sweet-talking confident young dancer.

After we received our first tango dance lesson certificates, we were then shown to the small theatre where we were served a most acceptable three course meal and as much to drink as we could manage. Two of the dancers walked around posing with the guests and both David and I were more than delighted to pose with our respective 'partners'. David looks just like a professional mafioso in his dark fedora and I look a little silly with a red feather boa and my leg dangling around the young man's knees. Well, when a tango dancer says to one ' up leg' in a low and sultry voice, that's what you do!

After dinner the lights dimmed and 'our' dancers opened the show with a very flashy, leg-flicking, low-slung tango. What a start to the show. The dancers move with extreme elegance and fire and sadly we realised that to get to their level of brilliance we would either have to practice daily for the next thirty years or simply give up.

Once again we were taken home and certainly I dreamed of young tango dancers and brilliant long strides across the dance floor. I certainly know exactly which my first evening will be spent the next time we arrive in Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires

But let's get back BA. What a beautiful city it is. As one drives in from the airport the large streets and magnificent boulevards are a delight to view.

Fountains and statues are placed in strategic positions and celebrate anything from [another] revolution to a donation from one country or another thanking Argentina for the hospitality or welcome shared.

We found the best way to explore was the 'hop on hop off' bus where the commentary is continuous and interesting and there are eleven stops to hop on and off and so ones sees the city highlights and can be free to hop off for a coffee or beer or even shop.

We hopped off at La Boca [the mouth - of the river] where the houses are painted bright primary colours [painted using left over boat paint] and where we wandered around cobbled streets and were fascinated by the people some who touted for photographs dressed as tango dancers.

The quality of tourist tat is good although just tat. We were astonished to see seal fur coats as part of the show.

We hopped on again after taking many photos and drove onto the Cemetery in Rocoleta which is famous for non other than Evita Duarte's grave among others. The graves are placed in as in a city with walk ways and edifices that rise out of the ground that are marble monuments to the dead.

We did have a light lunch under a large 'gum' tree which turn out to be a rubber tree and enjoyed our cold drink/beer and not the indifferent meal.

That evening we went to a tango show - but more of that later.

Back Home and 'Spinning'

No not that gym thing that everyone seems to be crazy about, but simply the spin that you feel after a remarkable expedition and you arrive back home to find: the next door neighbours have been robbed, the cat has killed a mouse - yes - in the house and there is no food in the pantry!

However that does not detract from the fact that our stay in South America was fabulous. What a great country!

In Ushuaia airport we looked like gypsies unpacking bags and re-packing gear. However, once we had convinced the flight controllers that we were not going to attempt any dire deed we were allowed onto the plane and arrived in Buenos Aires to find our pick-up non-existent and so had to take a taxi into the B&B in Rigoleta - which took two hours and not the normal 45 minutes.

When we eventually arrived at the home after many stops and mucho gracias from the driver we dumped our [very heavy] bags and had a great 'tapas' meal at the local corner cafe. A great relax after that was most welcome.

Mathe - The Gesture of Goodwill

Left the ‘Highway Hotel‘ immediately after we had eaten a fair breakfast. The receptionist was most unimpressed and rolled her eyes to great effect to which I responded with my ‘Paddington Stare’. So you can imagine who came off the worst.

We piled all our gear into the taxi and made great haste to Los Acesbos Hotel on the mountain side and which overlooks the Beagle Channel AND which has almost no traffic let alone any noise. They were delighted to have us with them again and arranged for a driver to take us up to the Lakes and moved our luggage into our room.

We then drove off with an English speaking local who proceeded to take us high into the mountains and to the magnificent lakes surrounded by high mountains and beech forests.

We bought [more] scrumptious chocolates in a small café in a town called Taluan which also has the best bakery in Ushuaia. There we were introduced to mathe which is a tea made from the sticks and leaves of a specific bush which is a social ritual in the area. The water should be 70% hot and 30% cold which is then poured over the concoction and sipped through a sieve-like straw. Shared as a friendship social opportunity everyone sips through the straw in turn as a gesture of goodwill. To the uninitiated palette the mixture tastes a little like breaking up sticks and mixing cut grass together, with some hot water [remember 70%-30%] thrown into the bowl. However it does apparently keep hunger at bay so perhaps I have discovered the next diet fad.

We had lunch overlooking one of the lakes. As always from an Argentine the meat is ‘free’ – not free as we know it, but as much food as you can eat for a set price. David had lamb and I had chicken. Of course I ended up with calefate ice cream, which was as delicious as ever.

On our way home we were to visit a Husky breeding area, but having glimpsed them on our way out we decided enough was enough and relaxed in our room overlooking the magnificent Beagle Channel. The news of an earthquake 6.5 on the Richter’s scale in the Ushuaia district was rather alarming, but as no one was hurt and our friends in the Drake Passage had a good crossing we were not too perturbed by the news.

Determined not to have an evening meal we succumbed and caught a taxi to Chez Manu which must have been one of the best meals we had ever eaten. Obviously meat is a great commodity here and should be enjoyed at every moment. David had beef, I crab [another delicacy from the Ushuaia area]. Unfortunately there was a ‘crab holding area in the restaurant and I put David on ‘crab-watch’ to ensure that one of the last two in the water was not about to be my meal. There is a happy ending – I ate one of the cousins and the one in the water lived to tell another tale.

We were driven home by an American couple who started to chat when I was taking a photo of the crabs. Of course the inevitable political questions started which confirmed our solidarity for staying in South Africa and the general ignorance of outsiders of the real South African issues – not that I am sure about any answers myself.

Travel makes me more and more aware of the transience of life and how fortunate we are to have traveled and visited the places we have.

The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Weather fine

The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Woke to realise the ship was moving into the harbour area already. We dressed quickly to be on deck as we arrived back into harbour.

Had a full solid breakfast with two of the expedition staff, Sean and Phil and organised our bags ready for disembarkation. As always this happens all to quickly and before we knew it we were on the pier and ready for the next stage of our journey. Who would think that all would be over in a a blink?

We arranged for a taxi to take us to our guest house which is on the Beagle Channel and although comfortable feels as though we are in the middle of a highway.

David and I decided to catch the small train which travels into the national park and was a great delight and surprise. Small engines pull the carriages on a journey which commemorates the train the prisoners were put on as they were taken to the goal in the area. [as bad as Alcatraz so they say].

With snow tipped mountains and icy streams it was a surprisingly enjoyable jaunt.

We then taxied into town and walked around buying the delicious chocolates that are made here and had a meal which was a bit disappointing as David and I think we were given incorrect food orders but the waiters were so busy and rather fierce and anyway when one has a packet of delicious chocolate as well as hot chocolate in hand who really cares?

In the afternoon we returned to the ‘garage’ hotel and relaxed a bit only to return to the travel agent to organise our Sunday. We have chosen to visit the Husky farm and the lakes further out into the countryside which will be another treat.

We watched the Clipper Adventurer steam out of the harbour at about seven this evening not without some heart pangs and once again enjoyed a spectacular meal at the restaurant overlooking the harbour where I ended the meal with palette pleasing calafate icecream.

I now write this as trucks, buses and cars trundle past the window at about midnight. The sun still glowers in the sky and hopefully we will have another spectacular weather day.

Bidding farewell to an unforgettable voyage

Weather: Seas still unsettled. During the night the ship almost jumped out of the ocean.

Lectures: from whalers to whale watchers.

Chatted to various guests and made firm contacts as a few would like to go to Greenland.

We had a fine farewell dinner with the ship anchored safely in the Beagle Channel. The sun set was colourful over the channel and the skies heavy and turbulent but the weather was fine.

The captain toasted the ship and the voyage and we had a good few moments of reflection as well as time to say our farewells to all we needed to. We find it is always better to greet everyone the night before departure as departure days are completely chaotic.

Dinner was delicious with prawns, a delicious salad, beef or meat and Baked Antarctica [not Alaska]. We sat with Eva and Morrie who will definitely be visiting us in South Africa sometime soon. A great couple, Eva is the Hotel Manager who does such a great job organising staff, meals and the dining room.

We made several toasts and everyone had a fine farewell dinner. The waiters brought in the dessert with much fun and laughter which was a fitting ending.

The Drake Passage

"Great Things have small Beginnings." Francis Drake.

Weather: Sea unsettled. Rolling and rollicking.

The Drake Passage

No early wake up call and many people under the weather. Social life was very limited as most people kept to their cabins.

The ship is completely battened down and guests are not permitted onto the outside decks.

Lectures were held and David and I presented an AV on icebergs which was well received. Extremely pleased as many people are ‘professional’ photographers. Perhaps DJ will now sell his pictures or at least put them into the market.

YES we did survive the Drake passage ordeal – but what remarkable waves we endured.

Gourdin Bay

Weather: Fine overcast but chill

We had another unusual expedition onto Gourdin Bay where Weddell and Crab seals lolled on rocks and three kinds of penguins, gentoo, adele and chinstrap muddled about...

We did another zodiac cruise to try and spot a leopard seal, but had to return to the ship because of heavy seas.

At the moment we've been told that the seas are too rough for another landing and so we move onto Deception Island as we near the end of our trip. We have been told that no ships are going to South Georgia because of bad weather - so we really have been fortunate.

Finally we put foot on our seventh continent

‘The World is only tolerable because of the empty spaces.’ Doris Lessing

Weather: Fine

Brown Bluff. Iceberg zodiac expedition.

Returned from the Antarctic Peninsula – another early morning wake up and breakfast with clear skies and sunshine. Did our official landing on the Antarctic continent and now can claim that we have now had foot on all seven continents!

Did an ice-berg cruise and would love a dress in the colours that reflect from sun to sea to ice. Almost edible. The sun is shining and we are almost HOT. We sit and chat with hot chocolate in our hands and with various people in the group, most amusing. Conversations range from American football to sheep farming in Tasmania. Use your imagination to conjour up the various twangs and intonations.

We had another wonderful braai on the deck last night. Surrounded by tabular icebergs, clear skies and sunshine this must have been the most unusual braai that we have ever participated in. Caribbean music played as the staff cooked delicious meat and we helped ourselves to salads and drank gluwien from paper cups.

Our group consisted of a South African couple from Benoni, an Israeli couple and ourselves. At one stage we were doing the ‘conga’ through the tables simply to keep our feet from falling off the end of our legs. We had the staff dancing with us and we put that day down as ‘one of the best’.

Visit to Elephant and Penguin Island

Early morning start onto the Zodiacs to land at Elephant Island. This is where the survivors stayed for five months waiting for Shackleton’s rescue. We are the first expedition ship to land here this year.

Towering glaciers, ice blue is the colour description. Fine icicles drip from the edges as they drift in the ocean.

The Zodiacs move from ship very easily and return just as easily. Once back at the ship the craft are hoisted up and checked so as to be ready for the next expedition.

Surrounded by icebergs and have just heard that due to the excellent weather conditions we have changed direction and are to visit Penguin Island before going to the Antarctic Peninsula. All being well we land there after dinner this evening. Another wonderful bonus.

After dinner we were called onto the bridge to see a pod of Orcas feeding. I have only ever seen orcas in movies and Sea World in Florida. These were swimming and foraging in ocean, coming up to breathe every now and then. The ship was silent as the captain turned her around so that we could view these magnificent dolphins.

We are now waiting to go on another expedition to Penguin Island. This is another ‘bonus’ excursion. Nine o’clock at night.

What an evening. We landed on the island which was covered in snow. Weddell fur seals lay on the snow with Chinstrap and Adele penguins crouched on the ice. One or two were most curious and poddled over tilted their heads and peered at the passengers.

Back on board and after a cup of hot chocolate we are now ready to sail onto to another amazing area.

In the land of the Ice Queen

We have been sailing all day in fair weather and no swells. Apparently this is remarkable weather for the area and we are ‘doing well’.

Whales were spotted off the port side [hammmm hmmmm that is the LEFT side for all you land-lubbers out there] and they were deemed to be Fin Whales who seemed to be on an eating spree and simply foraged around the boat keeping their mind on the right things.

We are in ice-berg country. The seas abound with these huge monoliths which are a piece of history floating on the ocean. This afternoon we passed a huge berg - with penguins perched on the one surface. The captain was good enough to circle it and we had this spectacular view of turquoise ice as is tipped into the ocean with a cerulean shelf which floated just under the surface of the ocean. Imagine a ball gown in the same colour with light ruches of aquamarine and white lace peeking as the skirt swirls.

We had another great dinner with a couple from New Mexico who enjoy sea-kayaking in the remote areas of Alaska. We have some wonderful tips for our next expedition [which has to be the northern Polar areas. Well we have the gear don’t we?]. Alaska and Greenland here we come!

We hope for an early start tomorrow as we are forging ahead so rapidly. The captain has to slow down because the weather is so good [can you believe it?] and we are approaching Elephant Island too quickly. This is the island that Shackleton and his men arrived at after their escape from the ice shelf after their ship broke up and sank. This is the place too, where the men remained for five months while Shackelton went to find assistance to get them all back home.

We will probably only have a Zodiac ride as there is little beach for landing, but as you know that is good enough for me!

Hopefully the captain will keep good watch in the next few days, as this is the land of the Ice Queen and many icebergs and much pack ice lies around and before us.

Weather fine... steaming ahead

After a long night’s sleep, we are now steaming ahead to the Antarctic peninsula.

Some facts and figures about Antarctica

Ice Terminology

Anchor Ice: Submerged ice which is attached to the sea bottom.
Bergy Bit: A piece of floating ice rising between 1 to 5 meters above the water.
Brash Ice: The remains of large pieces of ice crashing into each other and forming a large heaping pile.
Fast Ice: Sea ice attached to the shore or between grounded ice bergs.
Frazil Ice: Needle-shaped ice crystals that form a icy slush in the water.
Grease Ice: The stage at which the water gets a matte looking appearance when its between freezing and frazil ice.
Hummock: An area where ice floes have rafted or piled up on top of each other, often reaching heights several yards.
Ice Blink: A lighter section underneath the clouds which indicates reflecting light off the ice below. This technique was used by many early explorers to help steer them away from ice packs.
Ice Window: The short summer season when the fast ice has broken away to allow ships to come close to the Antarctic coastline.
Lead: A section of open water within pack ice and large ice floes.
Nilas: Thin crust of floating ice that bends in the waves, but does not break. The darker in appearance, the thinner the nilas is.
Pancake Ice: Discs of young ice, formed when waves jostle them against each other rounding their edges.
Tide Crack: A crack between sea ice and the shoreline. This crack is caused by the rise and fall of the tide and is usually to wide to cross safely.
www.eco-explorers.antacrtica.com

Of Greykviten and Gluwein

We had a relax after our shore excursion. Well to be honest I had a snooze while DJ played with his remarkable images. He has been able to capture magnificent wildlife photos and I cannot wait for you to see them. The animals, similar to The Galapagos, simply sit and do what is natural for them. So in comparison [and I know that is not fair] to African wildlife image taking this offers more opportunities to obtain more photos.

We spent the whole afternoon in Greytviken – the whaling station. But before that we have officially seen our first ice-berg – larger than a grand piano. So we are officially [I suppose] in South Polar country.

A barbeque arranged for the evening turned into such fun. Arranged on the Lido deck [no swimming pool in sight]the view was as different from a South African braai that you could get. Icebergs on the horizon, steep cliffs nearby and a small museum whale village on shore. The staff is always so helpful and certainly full of fun. I have found a ‘fellow Indian’ who on making a chance remark about the area being similar to Kashmir, became an instant pal and when he mentioned that he lived just outside Dharamsala we were instantly related.

The staff began setting up the evening function on the deck early afternoon and as always everything was set and done for our return. Caribbean music played, more food than you can consume [anything from sausage to prawns] great salads. Gluwein was the drink of the evening which was quaffed by all the passengers.

The community of the Greykviten joined us [all fifteen of them] and preceded to enjoy themselves talking amongst the passengers and enjoying the companionship expedition ships provide – although apparently it is not a given that they are invited on board.

Many of the people on shore are contracted for more than two years. I suspect they find it extremely difficult to fit back into the humdrum home life in England. One young person is doing research on the breeding patterns of the King penguin – and hopes to return for a second term and stay on the even more remote Bird Island for a further two years.

The search for ice-bergs begins

Obviously when St Andrews Bay was on the agenda both David and I needed little impetus to go on the excursion even though it was an early [very early] wake up call. We had three landings yesterday - the last one being the whaling station that Shackleton arrived at after his epic check. Similar to the Namibian Elizabeth Bay and Kolmanskop the buildings were stark and forlorn.

We often have a late supper and are up with an early morning call to commence darting from here to there. I usually choose to stay about an hour and a half to two hours on at the landing areas. David has to be gaffed off the beaches as he, together with a few other 'intrepid' photographers and the artist, leave only on the last Zodiac. I come back, tidy up and sit in the library or fore-lounge [it's like being on your own private yacht with everyone else on an excursion] and write and enjoy a cup of 'well-deserved] hot chocolate [even though it IS rather too]. However, if anyone thinks we are on holiday, think again - the up side of all this high activity is that I am fitter than I have been for a while. So my dearest children should beware - I might take them on later this year!

I also enjoy visiting the Bridge. It is always silent up there with the captain discussing position and weather conditions with the crew and all in all a formal, busy silence pervades. One of the other things I love is the Zodiac rides. So every now and again I beg an extra ride or two and often get a tour of the bay we are visiting as well.

On our way back to the ship [which was a few kilometres today]. We had a glimpse of our first [very small] iceberg and as we head down south they will obviously become more obvious. [Hope the captain knows this]. The small ones are called "growlers", being the sound they make as they scrape the side of the ship. [GULP]

Breakfast is served soon and with my stomach growling as the icebergs do. I had better go and get some food.

Anyone for scrambled eggs and smoked salmon?