Creative Escapes - 2013 - the year so far

To realise that it is mid-year already is not just a shock to the system, but an acknowledgement that time is something man-made and cannot be contained. It needs to be accepted as a linear measurement of one's life. Even our young granddaughters in their busy little lives notice the speed of time as they swirl and twirl through school days and weekends in busy social and family-filled weekends.

Both in Creative Escapes where we have a wonderful time traveling during our sabbatical break and in Penfriends Calligraphy Studio, where my students and I prepare for an exhibition to celebrate my thirty years of teaching, I find time simply ceases to be meaningful in the busy-ness of the days.

With travel being so quick, which is of course is relative to the waits at airports or the time it takes us to drive from Johannesburg to whichever destination we have chosen, arrival at a new game park or even country is relatively simple - which makes me think that at last I can understand the mystery of relativity and quantum physics. However, travellers such as we are, still have to negotiate the perils of border posts and officials, avoiding confrontation at all costs.

We have discovered over the years that we are often followed by armed men who throw murky looks at  David's huge 800ml lens which is viewed with great suspicion and is a source of anxiety by these ever vigilant people. Is it a bazooka, a mortar or some other mysterious form of deadly weapon? The only times I can imagine the lens can harm is if it falls on someones foot,  a celebrity hiding away or Joan Rivers wrinkles as she tears the rich and famous apart.

I have learned to ease away at a steady pace, armed with my back pack and David's camera bag and leave the photographer to his own inimitable resources. We also pay the Overweight Levy without argument, for what is a photographer in any wildlife situation without his huge lens. But recently more interesting than anything else, we have discovered that our 'age' works in our favor, for, after all, what damage would two 'old dears' really be able to do? Mmmmm, they haven't seen me weald my backpack yet, have they?

Our first foray of the photographic year began gently with friends Hannetjie and Herman in Dullstroom where we spent a few peaceful days at Walkersons, meandering through the mist and waterways. Long walks and fireplaces could not have been a nicer begin the year.

Misty 

Of course Rose Cottage in the eastern Free State is our constant resource for floral, autumn and landscape photography and we continue to spend as much time there as possible with family and friends. We are continually delighted by the changing scenery and clear light. Lesotho, a mere eight kilometers away always provides an added scene or two. 

Summer Sunflower fields - Eastern Free State

We spent a remarkable few days in the Kalagadi in March where it was so hot the air couldn't move under the fans and the fridges gave up any semblance of cooling. At times we took to our bungalows and lay in wet heaps wondering how the animals kept their cool. At one stage we seriously thought we were melting and temperatures of 45 degrees it seemed possible. The game viewing was disappointing but the wilderness camps were exactly as we expected them to be - remote and wild. 

Kalagadi Blue Sky

Our trip to Zambia, the south Luangwa valley and Livingstone with the falls viewed from the Zambian side has been a highlight. Zambia is a wonderful country with friendly people who seem to care about visitors. It is a beautiful country filled with contrasts, big skies and the awe-inspiring Zambezi River. The Luangwa valley is extremely beautiful with large trees that hold the sky up and rivers that flow wide and slow and animals that range from puku, hyena, elephant, lion and leopard. Wonderful photographic opportunities abounded. 

We stayed at Thornicroft Lodge situated just outside Mfuwe and the park. We were treated to home-cooked meals and great service. David the manager is also an artist and he shared some beautiful art work with us and the other guests. Rodgers our driver guide showed is some special sightings of leopard, my all time favorite cat. A special thank you for not informing me of the spitting cobra outside our bungalow on our last night there.

Little bee eater

We flew from Mfuwe to Livingstone where we viewed and explored the falls from the Zambian side of the Zambezi. The falls are extraordinary. The river was full and it was easy to imagine my great, great grandfather Henry Hartley and his friend Thomas Baines being poled down river those many decades ago, long before Livingstone himself 'made the claim' for queen and country. In both locations David (Moore) captured some special images which may well have made Baines a little envious of our modern technology.

At the Falls

We now gear up for our annual migration to Kenya. We will once again spend a week in the Masai Mara absorbing the atmosphere and excitement of the greatest wildlife show on earth. Our dear friend and client Yvonne will be returning for her fourth tour of the Mara. She is bringing her husband and friends from Australia and England. It will be a happy reunion. Our friends Hannetjie and Sue join us from South Africa, so once again we are fortunate to have a full compliment of guests. 

David and I, together with Sue will fly to Rwanda and then to the volcano parks to trek into the forests to find the golden monkeys and spectacular gorillas. We can't wait for this special adventure. 

In a Masaai Manyatta

As you can see our sabbatical has been far from quiet. Yet even in the apparent swirl of our travels we find time to be silent in our enjoyment and pay tribute to the beauty that surrounds us. 

Most of the images are from my camera taken by me or guides. I will update you when I have some of David's images added so you can enjoy them. 

April Autumn Wonder

We had a small group with us this April. The participants were treated to a wonderful show of autumn colours, the best in 20 years we feel.

David 'discovered' a new photographic venue where he enjoyed hours of photographic opportunities. The skies were clear. The trees magnificent. The opportunities boundless. Another great [photographic] weekend in the Eastern Free State.

A few of David's superb images

 Reflections

 Row after Row

 Blue Skies, Golden Poplars

 Golden Trees

 The Avenue

 Golden Sentinels

 Golden Road

Herding sheep

Weekend Workshop - Cosmos

We still have space for the Cosmos weekend workshop on 16 - 18 March in the Eastern Free State.
Floral and Landscape Photography.

We expect: Clear skies, fields of cosmos, good food and many hours of good photography.

Floral Impression

Photograph by David Moore

Do join us.

Snow in Lesotho

Once again David and I raced to to the Eastern Free State firstly to take supplies down to Rose Cottage, but luckily snow had fallen in Lesotho and it was simply too good an opportunity to miss more photographic opportunities.

Rose Cottage waited for us and we enjoyed the snug fire where we 'picniced' for all our meals. We were at the border before dawn and sailed through without a problem. The drive to the Mala Bamatso River was breath taking as we curved higher and higher into the snowline. Frozen waterfalls fringed the road and drifts of snow covered the mountains.

David as ever took some beautiful images. The ones you see below are mine, but never the less give a good impression of the great day we had in Lesotho.

 A-MM Wrapped up

 Snow Drift

 David and a Shepherd

David having fun

July Frigid WInter Weekend - Fouriesburg and Lesotho

Once again the weather played its part. With the remarkable summer rains, Lesotho's waterfalls turned to ice for the Creative Escapes photographers.

Early mornings are biting cold and 'cold to the bone' is a term that is well understood by the photographers this past weekend.

With warm welcomes on return and hot soup and tasty stews in the evening, the group felt that the cheek biting weather was worth the effort.

 The Malobamatsi River - Lesotho

Frozen River

We donned our Antarctic gear and with good wind breakers, ruffs and 'long-johns' we braved the chill to enjoy superb photographic opportunities.

The images David captured were exceptional and certainly made the early morning trek into Lesotho more than worth while.

February Day Workshop

It is always exciting to meet new photographers. In our first workshop of the year we met some keen photographer, people with new cameras and new enthusiasm for a new found hobby!

David's presentations included evaluation of light, understanding exposure and introduction to Photoshop. Of course creativity was a focus and as that is one of David's passions.

As always Helen served a delicious meal and wine from several vineyards was enjoyed.

David chatting to the group

The day was intense and rewarding. The next Creative Escapes weekend is Cosmos in March in the Eastern Free State. We hope to see you there.

Launch

We had a great launch of the 2011 programme at the Rand Club. Together with Allaboutwriting we had over 100 guests which added to the atmosphere of the evening.

First Sighting and Adamaster were some of the delectable wines tasted in the magnificent bar before the presentations.

Once we were seated Richard and Jo-Anne discussed the merits and challenges readers and publishers face now due to the ease of purchase and possible pirating of already published works. Fascinating thoughts to ponder,

David and I presented the 2011 programme and several other short audio visuals which included Antarctica, the Tango and a cheetah hunt in the Masai Mara.

It was wonderful to meet old friends who have supported Creative Escapes for many years. Hopefully 2011 will be another exciting travel year.

People & Places

As always, if it weren't for the people there would be no tours. Here are a few 'shots' of our guests in Lesotho and Fouriesburg on the July Snow & Ice Creative Escapes weekend. From the icy chill in Lesotho to the warm conviviality of Fouriesburg everyone had a great time.

The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Weather fine

The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Woke to realise the ship was moving into the harbour area already. We dressed quickly to be on deck as we arrived back into harbour.

Had a full solid breakfast with two of the expedition staff, Sean and Phil and organised our bags ready for disembarkation. As always this happens all to quickly and before we knew it we were on the pier and ready for the next stage of our journey. Who would think that all would be over in a a blink?

We arranged for a taxi to take us to our guest house which is on the Beagle Channel and although comfortable feels as though we are in the middle of a highway.

David and I decided to catch the small train which travels into the national park and was a great delight and surprise. Small engines pull the carriages on a journey which commemorates the train the prisoners were put on as they were taken to the goal in the area. [as bad as Alcatraz so they say].

With snow tipped mountains and icy streams it was a surprisingly enjoyable jaunt.

We then taxied into town and walked around buying the delicious chocolates that are made here and had a meal which was a bit disappointing as David and I think we were given incorrect food orders but the waiters were so busy and rather fierce and anyway when one has a packet of delicious chocolate as well as hot chocolate in hand who really cares?

In the afternoon we returned to the ‘garage’ hotel and relaxed a bit only to return to the travel agent to organise our Sunday. We have chosen to visit the Husky farm and the lakes further out into the countryside which will be another treat.

We watched the Clipper Adventurer steam out of the harbour at about seven this evening not without some heart pangs and once again enjoyed a spectacular meal at the restaurant overlooking the harbour where I ended the meal with palette pleasing calafate icecream.

I now write this as trucks, buses and cars trundle past the window at about midnight. The sun still glowers in the sky and hopefully we will have another spectacular weather day.

The Drake Passage

"Great Things have small Beginnings." Francis Drake.

Weather: Sea unsettled. Rolling and rollicking.

The Drake Passage

No early wake up call and many people under the weather. Social life was very limited as most people kept to their cabins.

The ship is completely battened down and guests are not permitted onto the outside decks.

Lectures were held and David and I presented an AV on icebergs which was well received. Extremely pleased as many people are ‘professional’ photographers. Perhaps DJ will now sell his pictures or at least put them into the market.

YES we did survive the Drake passage ordeal – but what remarkable waves we endured.

The search for ice-bergs begins

Obviously when St Andrews Bay was on the agenda both David and I needed little impetus to go on the excursion even though it was an early [very early] wake up call. We had three landings yesterday - the last one being the whaling station that Shackleton arrived at after his epic check. Similar to the Namibian Elizabeth Bay and Kolmanskop the buildings were stark and forlorn.

We often have a late supper and are up with an early morning call to commence darting from here to there. I usually choose to stay about an hour and a half to two hours on at the landing areas. David has to be gaffed off the beaches as he, together with a few other 'intrepid' photographers and the artist, leave only on the last Zodiac. I come back, tidy up and sit in the library or fore-lounge [it's like being on your own private yacht with everyone else on an excursion] and write and enjoy a cup of 'well-deserved] hot chocolate [even though it IS rather too]. However, if anyone thinks we are on holiday, think again - the up side of all this high activity is that I am fitter than I have been for a while. So my dearest children should beware - I might take them on later this year!

I also enjoy visiting the Bridge. It is always silent up there with the captain discussing position and weather conditions with the crew and all in all a formal, busy silence pervades. One of the other things I love is the Zodiac rides. So every now and again I beg an extra ride or two and often get a tour of the bay we are visiting as well.

On our way back to the ship [which was a few kilometres today]. We had a glimpse of our first [very small] iceberg and as we head down south they will obviously become more obvious. [Hope the captain knows this]. The small ones are called "growlers", being the sound they make as they scrape the side of the ship. [GULP]

Breakfast is served soon and with my stomach growling as the icebergs do. I had better go and get some food.

Anyone for scrambled eggs and smoked salmon?

We are on the ocean...

We are on the ocean – sailing in weather that [quote one crew member] is as good as it gets! The sun is shining and the ocean, while not steady-steady, is rolling steadily.

Before boarding yesterday we visited the Ushuaia National Park and were able to walk along board walks.

We viewed geese, still lakes, clear glacier filled rivers and the mountains of Chile and Argentina .

I sent a postcard from the most southerly post office, where the post master saw us arrive and zipped over in a Zodiac to do his duty. We had our passports stamped with his special stamp – all at a cost of course.

After an easy boarding, we were shown into our compact cabin from a drizzly and wet Ushuaia we were given a very brief briefing after which we went on deck and were nearly swept away by cheeky biting wind. Our bright yellow parkas will ensure that we will be visible on the ice and kept warm at the same time.

David had given me some medication for anti sea-sickness which made me float around the galleys like an albatross. Sitting chatting to David through the evening meal was a dream-like experience, not because I was mesmerised by his scintillating conversation, but because I was totally out of things!

I do not know if I undressed to sleep, but woke this morning still ‘out of it’ and eschewed any further of DJ’s ‘magic muti’! I did manage to dislodge the shower soap as I manoeuvred myself in the shower area, but after a hearty breakfast of cereal, eggs and smoked salmon I have recovered enough to walk on deck without fear of diving off the edge and now sit in the lounge surrounded by the crew and some fellow passengers, all of whom I look at and hope to goodness that they are competent enough to lead us through and crisis we might encounter.

The guests as always for me are almost more interesting than the wildlife.

We have ‘The Birders’ who, even though there are only ‘x’ number of birds to identify at any given spot, argue, dissect and ponder the siting. The conversations always end up with one of the ‘spotters sighing – ‘well, yes, yes, it has the eye-stripe so it must be the……………albatross.’

We then have ‘The Experts’, those who have been on an Antarctic cruise before where on the previous ship the food was better, the lecturers more erudite and the passage smoother. For me the passage so far has been smooth and fab and that’s good enough for me.

We also have the ‘team players’. Many Australians who have their green and yellow shirts on with kangaroos bounce about. The Israelis who talk ‘big’ and secretly and the Brits who put on the accent and treat everyone else like colonials. This lot may well set another sortie when they land on the Falklands.

Don’t let’s even talk about ‘The Photographers’ who discuss aperture, light and focus until all have disappeared into a cloud of grey.

The internet here is dodgy, with the satellite being behind the funnel, no one being cheeky enough to request that the captain turn the vessel for easier internet access. David has arrived with a cup of hot chocolate. I feel more ‘in the moment’ again...

Till next time.

From Johannesburg to Ushuaia

Greetings!

As I sit and write I look over Beagle Bay, mountains covered in snow and forests and know that we are at the furthest inhabited place on earth.

After a wonderful Christmas filled with the warmth of family and friends we were ready to leave for our Antarctic trip. From the moment we said good bye to our family after our now traditional 'group hug' we were ready to GO!

Elizabeth loaded us off at the airport in good time and from that moment, to when we arrived in Ushuaia we have not stopped being utterly amazed by the excitement and privilege of this adventure.

We had an easy check in at ORT - notwithstanding the fact that three [yes 3] international SAA flights were being checked in at the same time, at the same place. We were fortunate enough to be pushed ahead - perhaps our aged looks are finally being taken into account - and instead of waiting in line for another hour, we managed a fairly easy transfer, although I had checked in online the previous night, so perhaps that did help.

We had perfect seats and although we had two young children near us and one baby down the aisle, who objected loudly using great strength of lungs as we took off, our day flight to Argentina was fairly unexciting. Despite the enforced sleep pattern determined by the airline staff ["close the shutters until we tell you it is time to re-open" - I now know what the hyacinth bulbs we force in spring feel like] the plane flight pattern was so stable we barely felt we were moving.

Our pick up service was waiting for us as we walked through customs and we were whizzed through the beautiful wide and fairly empty Boulevard streets of a Sunday Buenos Aires. It seems that all drivers in Argentina drive as though they were driving Important People – so the maximum speed is used while passengers hold on to hand luggage and themselves as they are whirled around corners.

After a friendly welcome to the guest house we relaxed for what seemed like a few moments when the taxi from the Tango venue arrived to collect us. We were up and out within ten minutes changed and ready for a great evening, although for an hour or so my eyes felt as though they were still in South Africa.

We enjoyed a delicious meal. The waiter looked at me with raised eye-brows when I said that I was not happy to taste the Beef, but would be happy to try the trout. David enjoyed a meat pasty as a starter, which he declared good and noted that the eagerly awaited Beef was well worth the journey. For those of you who enjoy Gelati - I voted the ice-cream delicious.

At about ten o'clock we were escorted across the road to the Tango show - El Viejo Almacien - which was as exciting as we hoped it to be. The dancers [although very familiar with their routine] certainly did not allow the fire and drama of the dance to falter. The sultry sexiness of the movements were dramatic and exquisite. The dancers were beautiful and the evening was well worth the late night return.

Our early morning trek to the domestic airport took us through beautiful wide streets, past the race course to see to glimpse some horses on a training canter. We met up with some other South Africans who are also on the Quark tour. After a three hour flight we arrived in Ushuaia. Our hotel in is in the forests above the town and looks over the Beagle Channel.

For those of you who recall that programme set in Alaska in that funky small town with the interesting people who were all a little off the wall and the funky radio station and moose walking through the roads, this is very similar. Except here, instead of Inuits we have native Indians and odd eyed husky dogs. Most intriguing.

We had lunch at a cosy restaurant called Tant Sara where I sipped hot chocolate and David had a stout named after – yes you have guessed it The Beagle! As my eyes skirted through the menu I saw: mozzarella lolly pops, penguin choc lollies, cheese tarts and calafate ice-cream. Fascinating stuff!

We have been briefed for the tour and find that there are 8 South Africans with us. It is so very strange to be at the places we have read about for so long and although there is mail on the boat I am not sure when next I can update you.

As we walked through the town this afternoon we decided that we had just experienced a ‘Penguin’s Wedding’. Remember the monkeys wedding of our childhood - rain and sunshine? Well, we encountered snow and sunshine instead.

We board the ship at 16h00 tomorrow [Tuesday] afternoon for our great adventure. We are ready to go to a restaurant in town called Maria Lola. As I sign off at eight o’clock in the evening with no glimmer of sunset, I look at the clock on my Mac see that it is 00:58 in South Africa. I now understand why the curtains are such a heavy brocade.

Till next time.