We are on the ocean...

We are on the ocean – sailing in weather that [quote one crew member] is as good as it gets! The sun is shining and the ocean, while not steady-steady, is rolling steadily.

Before boarding yesterday we visited the Ushuaia National Park and were able to walk along board walks.

We viewed geese, still lakes, clear glacier filled rivers and the mountains of Chile and Argentina .

I sent a postcard from the most southerly post office, where the post master saw us arrive and zipped over in a Zodiac to do his duty. We had our passports stamped with his special stamp – all at a cost of course.

After an easy boarding, we were shown into our compact cabin from a drizzly and wet Ushuaia we were given a very brief briefing after which we went on deck and were nearly swept away by cheeky biting wind. Our bright yellow parkas will ensure that we will be visible on the ice and kept warm at the same time.

David had given me some medication for anti sea-sickness which made me float around the galleys like an albatross. Sitting chatting to David through the evening meal was a dream-like experience, not because I was mesmerised by his scintillating conversation, but because I was totally out of things!

I do not know if I undressed to sleep, but woke this morning still ‘out of it’ and eschewed any further of DJ’s ‘magic muti’! I did manage to dislodge the shower soap as I manoeuvred myself in the shower area, but after a hearty breakfast of cereal, eggs and smoked salmon I have recovered enough to walk on deck without fear of diving off the edge and now sit in the lounge surrounded by the crew and some fellow passengers, all of whom I look at and hope to goodness that they are competent enough to lead us through and crisis we might encounter.

The guests as always for me are almost more interesting than the wildlife.

We have ‘The Birders’ who, even though there are only ‘x’ number of birds to identify at any given spot, argue, dissect and ponder the siting. The conversations always end up with one of the ‘spotters sighing – ‘well, yes, yes, it has the eye-stripe so it must be the……………albatross.’

We then have ‘The Experts’, those who have been on an Antarctic cruise before where on the previous ship the food was better, the lecturers more erudite and the passage smoother. For me the passage so far has been smooth and fab and that’s good enough for me.

We also have the ‘team players’. Many Australians who have their green and yellow shirts on with kangaroos bounce about. The Israelis who talk ‘big’ and secretly and the Brits who put on the accent and treat everyone else like colonials. This lot may well set another sortie when they land on the Falklands.

Don’t let’s even talk about ‘The Photographers’ who discuss aperture, light and focus until all have disappeared into a cloud of grey.

The internet here is dodgy, with the satellite being behind the funnel, no one being cheeky enough to request that the captain turn the vessel for easier internet access. David has arrived with a cup of hot chocolate. I feel more ‘in the moment’ again...

Till next time.

From Johannesburg to Ushuaia

Greetings!

As I sit and write I look over Beagle Bay, mountains covered in snow and forests and know that we are at the furthest inhabited place on earth.

After a wonderful Christmas filled with the warmth of family and friends we were ready to leave for our Antarctic trip. From the moment we said good bye to our family after our now traditional 'group hug' we were ready to GO!

Elizabeth loaded us off at the airport in good time and from that moment, to when we arrived in Ushuaia we have not stopped being utterly amazed by the excitement and privilege of this adventure.

We had an easy check in at ORT - notwithstanding the fact that three [yes 3] international SAA flights were being checked in at the same time, at the same place. We were fortunate enough to be pushed ahead - perhaps our aged looks are finally being taken into account - and instead of waiting in line for another hour, we managed a fairly easy transfer, although I had checked in online the previous night, so perhaps that did help.

We had perfect seats and although we had two young children near us and one baby down the aisle, who objected loudly using great strength of lungs as we took off, our day flight to Argentina was fairly unexciting. Despite the enforced sleep pattern determined by the airline staff ["close the shutters until we tell you it is time to re-open" - I now know what the hyacinth bulbs we force in spring feel like] the plane flight pattern was so stable we barely felt we were moving.

Our pick up service was waiting for us as we walked through customs and we were whizzed through the beautiful wide and fairly empty Boulevard streets of a Sunday Buenos Aires. It seems that all drivers in Argentina drive as though they were driving Important People – so the maximum speed is used while passengers hold on to hand luggage and themselves as they are whirled around corners.

After a friendly welcome to the guest house we relaxed for what seemed like a few moments when the taxi from the Tango venue arrived to collect us. We were up and out within ten minutes changed and ready for a great evening, although for an hour or so my eyes felt as though they were still in South Africa.

We enjoyed a delicious meal. The waiter looked at me with raised eye-brows when I said that I was not happy to taste the Beef, but would be happy to try the trout. David enjoyed a meat pasty as a starter, which he declared good and noted that the eagerly awaited Beef was well worth the journey. For those of you who enjoy Gelati - I voted the ice-cream delicious.

At about ten o'clock we were escorted across the road to the Tango show - El Viejo Almacien - which was as exciting as we hoped it to be. The dancers [although very familiar with their routine] certainly did not allow the fire and drama of the dance to falter. The sultry sexiness of the movements were dramatic and exquisite. The dancers were beautiful and the evening was well worth the late night return.

Our early morning trek to the domestic airport took us through beautiful wide streets, past the race course to see to glimpse some horses on a training canter. We met up with some other South Africans who are also on the Quark tour. After a three hour flight we arrived in Ushuaia. Our hotel in is in the forests above the town and looks over the Beagle Channel.

For those of you who recall that programme set in Alaska in that funky small town with the interesting people who were all a little off the wall and the funky radio station and moose walking through the roads, this is very similar. Except here, instead of Inuits we have native Indians and odd eyed husky dogs. Most intriguing.

We had lunch at a cosy restaurant called Tant Sara where I sipped hot chocolate and David had a stout named after – yes you have guessed it The Beagle! As my eyes skirted through the menu I saw: mozzarella lolly pops, penguin choc lollies, cheese tarts and calafate ice-cream. Fascinating stuff!

We have been briefed for the tour and find that there are 8 South Africans with us. It is so very strange to be at the places we have read about for so long and although there is mail on the boat I am not sure when next I can update you.

As we walked through the town this afternoon we decided that we had just experienced a ‘Penguin’s Wedding’. Remember the monkeys wedding of our childhood - rain and sunshine? Well, we encountered snow and sunshine instead.

We board the ship at 16h00 tomorrow [Tuesday] afternoon for our great adventure. We are ready to go to a restaurant in town called Maria Lola. As I sign off at eight o’clock in the evening with no glimmer of sunset, I look at the clock on my Mac see that it is 00:58 in South Africa. I now understand why the curtains are such a heavy brocade.

Till next time.

Antarctica

We celebrated Christmas with our family and spent this warm summer's day relaxing and enjoying the heat. As a reminder for the moments in Antarctica when I wonder what on earth we are doing there!

We've bought the gear, packed the cases and David has loaded the cameras. I have 'Whispered' my books onto my Kindle and packed paints and books. Now all we need to do is board the plane for Buenos Aires on Sunday.

We then spend the night in Palermo on BA and fly to Ushuaia to board the Clipper Adventurer the next day for our 20 day excursion in Antarctica. I am excited and and daunted by the forthcoming adventure.

I will try to keep our travel notes throughout the trip.

Wishing you a great photographic 2010.

Launch of 2010 Brochure

The launch of the Creative Escapes brochures is always a great function. Some of the participants of the previous workshops and tours join us as well as many friends - so it is always a jolly occasion.

About 50 guests arrived and were treated to a wine tasting by Nick Diemont of Strandveld wines. The white wine Adamastor was a great hit - reminding some of us of our matric years and Roy Campbell's poetry.

Small tastes of food were served and to the delight of many Helen made her delicious chocolate brownies.

The evening ended with a few of us around the table eating leftovers and reminiscing about the great times we've shared in 2009.

Here's to 2010. If you would like to view our new programme please go to our website: www.creative-escapes.co.za.

Morocco

Ssalâmo 'alîkom,

David and I have just returned from another wonderful adventure. This time Morocco was our destination. Nine of us toured the country in a bus with ample stops for photographers and shopping enough to satisfy the most intrepid bargain hunter.

Morocco is a vast country filled with diverse terrain from the shores of Casablanca, to the sands of the Sahara desert and the flurry of the souks of Fes and Marrakech.

We crossed the dunes on camels and spent a night under the full moon surrounded by the silence of the desert. We were bullied by store keepers in the souks and learned to haggle back in true Moroccan fashion. We shared meals and moments that will be engraved our minds forever. The people are interesting. The food exotic. The photography special.

Yes - we plan to visit there again in 2011.

Please visit our updated website for the 2010 workshops and view our remaining ones below.

Morocco - 2009

I'm packed and ready to go on another Creative Escapes adventure! Morocco! So long have we planned and thought about this that I really can't believe that we are nearly on our way!

New sounds, perfumes and people. A new culture and a whole new experience - story tellers and mint tea. What a combination!

Can't wait to see what the photos will be like.

Masai Mara 2009 -Memories

Greetings Rafikii [and yes that really does mean friends]

We returned last night from a magnificent stay at Breezes Beach hotel on the Zanzibar coast and the Zanzibar Serena Hotel in Stonetown which overlooks the ocean. These resorts boast people and service that rival Kichwa.

We began our trip on Kenya Air at the early hours of Saturday morning and arrived in Nairobi to be welcomed by our friend George of Custom Safaris and Eliud together with Ole and ???. We had breakfast at my favourite shopping centre in Nairobi, The Junction - think beautiful leather bags and exceptional Kenyan coffee. A good stopover before our trip to Lake Nakuru.

We had a great time at Sarova Lion Hill where we viewed the masses of flamingo around the very depleted lake. We were made very aware of the severe drought Kenya is suffering. The Maasai are driving their cattle from north to south in the attempt to find pasture. [Golf courses are not excluded here].

On the Sunday morning we drove to Lake Naivasha to board the planes for the Mara. There I was entertained by a little boy who tried to each me to count in Swahili and shook his head vehemently every time I intoned the wrong word. [Yes I did nearly bring him home].

David and I think this is our best ever Masai Mara tour. We experienced yet again one of the Wonders of Nature. The wildebeest thrived in the Mara. One of our guests told us 'they're all gone'. Not possible I thought. Well they had left - it rained a little on the Serengeti plains, so they trekked to pastures greener.

But being the fickle and instinct driven creatures that they are, the wildebeest returned. Not one thousand, not two thousand, but millions. They dotted the hills, climbed the ridges, cantered across the plains, crossed the Mara river. Unravelled before us in dust filled moments. The migration took place in front of our eyes.

But the Masai Mara is not all about the migration. We were privileged to see leopard stalking and lazing. The yellow eyed contact is extremely daunting. We viewed jackal as they eased a baby gazelle from its mother. We witnessed the introduction of two cubs to the pride. We watched lionesses set up the pride for a kill. And we were surrounded by wildebeest.

To mention our friends at Kichwa Tembo is like talking about family - from the general manager, camp manager, rangers and sweepers guests are welcomed as family. The staffs' exceptional dedication and warmth simply make the stay more special than expected and the departure more difficult each year. To say Kwaheri [good bye] and seeing a young warrior out of the corner of your eye, with his head bent in sadness, rents a hole in the heart.

David is viewing photographs on his computer and from the glimpses I've had, we will have some great memories.

Masai Mara 2009

Well, two weeks before we leave for our annual pilgrimage to Kenya.

Our drivers are ready and we leave on 29 August with a group of 17 people which is great. We arrive in Nairobi and drive to Lake Nakuru where we will relax for a day before going onto the Mara.

Once again I am sure we will be welcomed to the camp and will begin our safari with excellent guides and drivers.

David and I then go off to Zanzibar where will be relax for a while on the coast and then drive onto Stone Town where the serious photography begins again. 

Tanzania

We have returned from a remarkable tour to Tanzania. Eight of us took the Kenya Air flight to Kenya with transit in Nairobi to Arusha. 

Well I say 8 - with one couple not realising that we had to be at the airport on Friday night to leave in the early hours of Saturday.  No wonder I don't do gym!

Once everyone was settled we arrived in Arusha to be met by David and Eluid who would be out drivers and guides for the following days.

What a time we had - from Lake Manyara to Serengeti [where grasslands cover horizon to horizon and where we did see the wildebeest migration begin going back into the Mara.

We had great sightings of leopard - so close that one of our passengers cold almost touch her.

Photography was challenging, but David captured some wonderful images.

We are now in the final stages of the Masai Mara planning with George of custom safaris and Shiko of andBeyond. Another wonderful adventure awaits. 

Namibia and Cosmos

Bit of an odd title, but this is to update on our recent journeys. 

We had a remarkable time in Namibia. Roads straight and well kept. Few people [only about 1.2 million people in the country] and great photographic opportunities. 

David and I attended the Desert Light workshop organised by Lydia Ellis and presented by Willem Oets and Nicole Palmer. I was a non-photographic participant and had a wonderful time reading and at times watching the beautiful audio visuals. David had a great time indulging in photography from pre-dawn to late night.

But we also visited Luderitz, Elizabeth Bay and Kolmanskop beforehand. Other wonderful photos were taken by David in that environment.

We stayed at some great lodges and re-visited Kulala Lodge which is one of our favourite places to stay. Great views of the desert and fine accommodation.

We had our first Creative Escapes weekend for 2009 at the end of March. With beautiful cosmos to photograph and a visit to Lesotho, all the delegates had a splendid weekend. 

The next Creative Escapes weekend is at the end of April - the Autumn Wonders of the Eastern Free State.

Namibia Trek

Well here we are, ready to trek and explore again. We can't remember when last we went to Namibia, but we are packed and raring to go. We have purchased the recommended shade cloth to protect the radiator from the grass seeds in Namibia - so we will experience a wonderful new aspect of the country.

David is attending a photographic workshop - Desert Light - with Willem Oets, Nicole Palmer and Lydia Ellis which promises to be a marvelous opportunity. I have packed a library of books, a small AppleMac computer and my enthusiasm for writing. So it seems that both of us will have a grand time. 

At the end of the month we hold our first Creative Escapes weekend workshop for 2009 - Cosmos in Fouriesburg. The Cosmos fields look promising, so watch this space for updated details in the next few weeks.

2009

And a start to a busy and exciting year.

Our first course is on the 22 February which happens to be on the day of the South African Grand Prix. Just shows how we follow that programme! 

The first outing is in Fouriesburg Eastern Free State from 27 - 29 March. We will have an excursion into Lesotho, a poet - Ruth Everson and an artist John Moore, as well as various photographers. So it should be an exciting and entertaining weekend.

Our website is being re-designed by Elizabeth, so we are very excited by the thought of a new look for the new year. 

With many travels and weekends planned here's to 2009!