February already

Before we new it we were back home and into our every day routines.

I teaching and David doing the daily surgery run.

On Sunday we held [by request] our first beginner's workshop of 2010 and fourteen photographers joined us for the day. A great time was had by all, especially by the new photographers who were delighted by David's images and thoughts on taking pictures.

Our first weekend away is in March with floral photography and water being the focus.

Do look on the website for further details: www.creative-escapes.co.za

Of Shopping Malls and Choices

I walked into one of the shopping centres in Johannesburg over the weekend and commented to David that although 'very posh' and with wonderful stores it is no competition for the centre we visited in Buenos Aires.

As our driver whizzed us through the beautiful boulevards, we were rather alarmed and wondered where we were going. He stopped outside the Principe Mall which is one of the nicest shopping areas I've visited for a long time.

Wide passages, shops with no 'Made in China' labels - please don't tell me everything has to be made in China! Shoe shops with high heel shoes in every colour, flat shoes with soft leather, sandals with straps in just the right place.

Coffee and food shops in just the right places and of course chocolate shops. One 'boutique' store simply sold small soaps and candles that looked good enough to eat. Great for small gifts.

Even the men's clothing stores beckoned David who actually slowed down to gaze at the well tailored smart and casual clothing.

So, I sit now and gaze onto the emerald green grass of our garden with the sun streaming through the leaves of the pinoaks and ponder on the remarkable experiences we've had over the past few weeks.

I don't have the 'ice bug' that so many of the Zodiac drivers and expedition leaders have - too much of a Bush person for that - but I certainly would certainly like to explore the Northern Arctic areas for another experience. And what about the Ross Ice Shelf? Now THAT'S a thought!

But Buenos Aries - as someone famous once said 'Ve vill be back'!

Boulevards, Fountains and the Tango

On the first night we were in BA we enjoyed a tango evening even though we had been awake for more than twenty hours by the time we fell on our beds. But the tango show was remarkable - lively, sexy and sensuous.

Who could resist yet another such evening on our third night in BA? More importantly this experience included a tango lesson. Well with much trepidation we were collected by the shuttle bus and taken into town. We were ushered into the dance studio and our minute dance instructor introduced herself to us. Totally bilingual [Spanish and English] she proceeded to persuade the most reluctant of us onto the floor and even managed to teach us the eight basic tango steps. More importantly she even made us believe that we COULD tango. Starting with a simple walk and being harangued into stepping as though we were tango dancers, she had us moving around the studio like professionals. Such is the power of a sweet-talking confident young dancer.

After we received our first tango dance lesson certificates, we were then shown to the small theatre where we were served a most acceptable three course meal and as much to drink as we could manage. Two of the dancers walked around posing with the guests and both David and I were more than delighted to pose with our respective 'partners'. David looks just like a professional mafioso in his dark fedora and I look a little silly with a red feather boa and my leg dangling around the young man's knees. Well, when a tango dancer says to one ' up leg' in a low and sultry voice, that's what you do!

After dinner the lights dimmed and 'our' dancers opened the show with a very flashy, leg-flicking, low-slung tango. What a start to the show. The dancers move with extreme elegance and fire and sadly we realised that to get to their level of brilliance we would either have to practice daily for the next thirty years or simply give up.

Once again we were taken home and certainly I dreamed of young tango dancers and brilliant long strides across the dance floor. I certainly know exactly which my first evening will be spent the next time we arrive in Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires

But let's get back BA. What a beautiful city it is. As one drives in from the airport the large streets and magnificent boulevards are a delight to view.

Fountains and statues are placed in strategic positions and celebrate anything from [another] revolution to a donation from one country or another thanking Argentina for the hospitality or welcome shared.

We found the best way to explore was the 'hop on hop off' bus where the commentary is continuous and interesting and there are eleven stops to hop on and off and so ones sees the city highlights and can be free to hop off for a coffee or beer or even shop.

We hopped off at La Boca [the mouth - of the river] where the houses are painted bright primary colours [painted using left over boat paint] and where we wandered around cobbled streets and were fascinated by the people some who touted for photographs dressed as tango dancers.

The quality of tourist tat is good although just tat. We were astonished to see seal fur coats as part of the show.

We hopped on again after taking many photos and drove onto the Cemetery in Rocoleta which is famous for non other than Evita Duarte's grave among others. The graves are placed in as in a city with walk ways and edifices that rise out of the ground that are marble monuments to the dead.

We did have a light lunch under a large 'gum' tree which turn out to be a rubber tree and enjoyed our cold drink/beer and not the indifferent meal.

That evening we went to a tango show - but more of that later.

Back Home and 'Spinning'

No not that gym thing that everyone seems to be crazy about, but simply the spin that you feel after a remarkable expedition and you arrive back home to find: the next door neighbours have been robbed, the cat has killed a mouse - yes - in the house and there is no food in the pantry!

However that does not detract from the fact that our stay in South America was fabulous. What a great country!

In Ushuaia airport we looked like gypsies unpacking bags and re-packing gear. However, once we had convinced the flight controllers that we were not going to attempt any dire deed we were allowed onto the plane and arrived in Buenos Aires to find our pick-up non-existent and so had to take a taxi into the B&B in Rigoleta - which took two hours and not the normal 45 minutes.

When we eventually arrived at the home after many stops and mucho gracias from the driver we dumped our [very heavy] bags and had a great 'tapas' meal at the local corner cafe. A great relax after that was most welcome.

Mathe - The Gesture of Goodwill

Left the ‘Highway Hotel‘ immediately after we had eaten a fair breakfast. The receptionist was most unimpressed and rolled her eyes to great effect to which I responded with my ‘Paddington Stare’. So you can imagine who came off the worst.

We piled all our gear into the taxi and made great haste to Los Acesbos Hotel on the mountain side and which overlooks the Beagle Channel AND which has almost no traffic let alone any noise. They were delighted to have us with them again and arranged for a driver to take us up to the Lakes and moved our luggage into our room.

We then drove off with an English speaking local who proceeded to take us high into the mountains and to the magnificent lakes surrounded by high mountains and beech forests.

We bought [more] scrumptious chocolates in a small café in a town called Taluan which also has the best bakery in Ushuaia. There we were introduced to mathe which is a tea made from the sticks and leaves of a specific bush which is a social ritual in the area. The water should be 70% hot and 30% cold which is then poured over the concoction and sipped through a sieve-like straw. Shared as a friendship social opportunity everyone sips through the straw in turn as a gesture of goodwill. To the uninitiated palette the mixture tastes a little like breaking up sticks and mixing cut grass together, with some hot water [remember 70%-30%] thrown into the bowl. However it does apparently keep hunger at bay so perhaps I have discovered the next diet fad.

We had lunch overlooking one of the lakes. As always from an Argentine the meat is ‘free’ – not free as we know it, but as much food as you can eat for a set price. David had lamb and I had chicken. Of course I ended up with calefate ice cream, which was as delicious as ever.

On our way home we were to visit a Husky breeding area, but having glimpsed them on our way out we decided enough was enough and relaxed in our room overlooking the magnificent Beagle Channel. The news of an earthquake 6.5 on the Richter’s scale in the Ushuaia district was rather alarming, but as no one was hurt and our friends in the Drake Passage had a good crossing we were not too perturbed by the news.

Determined not to have an evening meal we succumbed and caught a taxi to Chez Manu which must have been one of the best meals we had ever eaten. Obviously meat is a great commodity here and should be enjoyed at every moment. David had beef, I crab [another delicacy from the Ushuaia area]. Unfortunately there was a ‘crab holding area in the restaurant and I put David on ‘crab-watch’ to ensure that one of the last two in the water was not about to be my meal. There is a happy ending – I ate one of the cousins and the one in the water lived to tell another tale.

We were driven home by an American couple who started to chat when I was taking a photo of the crabs. Of course the inevitable political questions started which confirmed our solidarity for staying in South Africa and the general ignorance of outsiders of the real South African issues – not that I am sure about any answers myself.

Travel makes me more and more aware of the transience of life and how fortunate we are to have traveled and visited the places we have.

The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Weather fine

The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Woke to realise the ship was moving into the harbour area already. We dressed quickly to be on deck as we arrived back into harbour.

Had a full solid breakfast with two of the expedition staff, Sean and Phil and organised our bags ready for disembarkation. As always this happens all to quickly and before we knew it we were on the pier and ready for the next stage of our journey. Who would think that all would be over in a a blink?

We arranged for a taxi to take us to our guest house which is on the Beagle Channel and although comfortable feels as though we are in the middle of a highway.

David and I decided to catch the small train which travels into the national park and was a great delight and surprise. Small engines pull the carriages on a journey which commemorates the train the prisoners were put on as they were taken to the goal in the area. [as bad as Alcatraz so they say].

With snow tipped mountains and icy streams it was a surprisingly enjoyable jaunt.

We then taxied into town and walked around buying the delicious chocolates that are made here and had a meal which was a bit disappointing as David and I think we were given incorrect food orders but the waiters were so busy and rather fierce and anyway when one has a packet of delicious chocolate as well as hot chocolate in hand who really cares?

In the afternoon we returned to the ‘garage’ hotel and relaxed a bit only to return to the travel agent to organise our Sunday. We have chosen to visit the Husky farm and the lakes further out into the countryside which will be another treat.

We watched the Clipper Adventurer steam out of the harbour at about seven this evening not without some heart pangs and once again enjoyed a spectacular meal at the restaurant overlooking the harbour where I ended the meal with palette pleasing calafate icecream.

I now write this as trucks, buses and cars trundle past the window at about midnight. The sun still glowers in the sky and hopefully we will have another spectacular weather day.