Left the ‘Highway Hotel‘ immediately after we had eaten a fair breakfast. The receptionist was most unimpressed and rolled her eyes to great effect to which I responded with my ‘Paddington Stare’. So you can imagine who came off the worst.
We piled all our gear into the taxi and made great haste to Los Acesbos Hotel on the mountain side and which overlooks the Beagle Channel AND which has almost no traffic let alone any noise. They were delighted to have us with them again and arranged for a driver to take us up to the Lakes and moved our luggage into our room.
We then drove off with an English speaking local who proceeded to take us high into the mountains and to the magnificent lakes surrounded by high mountains and beech forests.
We bought [more] scrumptious chocolates in a small café in a town called Taluan which also has the best bakery in Ushuaia. There we were introduced to mathe which is a tea made from the sticks and leaves of a specific bush which is a social ritual in the area. The water should be 70% hot and 30% cold which is then poured over the concoction and sipped through a sieve-like straw. Shared as a friendship social opportunity everyone sips through the straw in turn as a gesture of goodwill. To the uninitiated palette the mixture tastes a little like breaking up sticks and mixing cut grass together, with some hot water [remember 70%-30%] thrown into the bowl. However it does apparently keep hunger at bay so perhaps I have discovered the next diet fad.
We had lunch overlooking one of the lakes. As always from an Argentine the meat is ‘free’ – not free as we know it, but as much food as you can eat for a set price. David had lamb and I had chicken. Of course I ended up with calefate ice cream, which was as delicious as ever.
On our way home we were to visit a Husky breeding area, but having glimpsed them on our way out we decided enough was enough and relaxed in our room overlooking the magnificent Beagle Channel. The news of an earthquake 6.5 on the Richter’s scale in the Ushuaia district was rather alarming, but as no one was hurt and our friends in the Drake Passage had a good crossing we were not too perturbed by the news.
Determined not to have an evening meal we succumbed and caught a taxi to Chez Manu which must have been one of the best meals we had ever eaten. Obviously meat is a great commodity here and should be enjoyed at every moment. David had beef, I crab [another delicacy from the Ushuaia area]. Unfortunately there was a ‘crab holding area in the restaurant and I put David on ‘crab-watch’ to ensure that one of the last two in the water was not about to be my meal. There is a happy ending – I ate one of the cousins and the one in the water lived to tell another tale.
We were driven home by an American couple who started to chat when I was taking a photo of the crabs. Of course the inevitable political questions started which confirmed our solidarity for staying in South Africa and the general ignorance of outsiders of the real South African issues – not that I am sure about any answers myself.
Travel makes me more and more aware of the transience of life and how fortunate we are to have traveled and visited the places we have.
Greetings!
As I sit and write I look over Beagle Bay, mountains covered in snow and forests and know that we are at the furthest inhabited place on earth.
After a wonderful Christmas filled with the warmth of family and friends we were ready to leave for our Antarctic trip. From the moment we said good bye to our family after our now traditional 'group hug' we were ready to GO!
Elizabeth loaded us off at the airport in good time and from that moment, to when we arrived in Ushuaia we have not stopped being utterly amazed by the excitement and privilege of this adventure.
We had an easy check in at ORT - notwithstanding the fact that three [yes 3] international SAA flights were being checked in at the same time, at the same place. We were fortunate enough to be pushed ahead - perhaps our aged looks are finally being taken into account - and instead of waiting in line for another hour, we managed a fairly easy transfer, although I had checked in online the previous night, so perhaps that did help.
We had perfect seats and although we had two young children near us and one baby down the aisle, who objected loudly using great strength of lungs as we took off, our day flight to Argentina was fairly unexciting. Despite the enforced sleep pattern determined by the airline staff ["close the shutters until we tell you it is time to re-open" - I now know what the hyacinth bulbs we force in spring feel like] the plane flight pattern was so stable we barely felt we were moving.
Our pick up service was waiting for us as we walked through customs and we were whizzed through the beautiful wide and fairly empty Boulevard streets of a Sunday Buenos Aires. It seems that all drivers in Argentina drive as though they were driving Important People – so the maximum speed is used while passengers hold on to hand luggage and themselves as they are whirled around corners.
After a friendly welcome to the guest house we relaxed for what seemed like a few moments when the taxi from the Tango venue arrived to collect us. We were up and out within ten minutes changed and ready for a great evening, although for an hour or so my eyes felt as though they were still in South Africa.
We enjoyed a delicious meal. The waiter looked at me with raised eye-brows when I said that I was not happy to taste the Beef, but would be happy to try the trout. David enjoyed a meat pasty as a starter, which he declared good and noted that the eagerly awaited Beef was well worth the journey. For those of you who enjoy Gelati - I voted the ice-cream delicious.
At about ten o'clock we were escorted across the road to the Tango show - El Viejo Almacien - which was as exciting as we hoped it to be. The dancers [although very familiar with their routine] certainly did not allow the fire and drama of the dance to falter. The sultry sexiness of the movements were dramatic and exquisite. The dancers were beautiful and the evening was well worth the late night return.
Our early morning trek to the domestic airport took us through beautiful wide streets, past the race course to see to glimpse some horses on a training canter. We met up with some other South Africans who are also on the Quark tour. After a three hour flight we arrived in Ushuaia. Our hotel in is in the forests above the town and looks over the Beagle Channel.
For those of you who recall that programme set in Alaska in that funky small town with the interesting people who were all a little off the wall and the funky radio station and moose walking through the roads, this is very similar. Except here, instead of Inuits we have native Indians and odd eyed husky dogs. Most intriguing.
We had lunch at a cosy restaurant called Tant Sara where I sipped hot chocolate and David had a stout named after – yes you have guessed it The Beagle! As my eyes skirted through the menu I saw: mozzarella lolly pops, penguin choc lollies, cheese tarts and calafate ice-cream. Fascinating stuff!
We have been briefed for the tour and find that there are 8 South Africans with us. It is so very strange to be at the places we have read about for so long and although there is mail on the boat I am not sure when next I can update you.
As we walked through the town this afternoon we decided that we had just experienced a ‘Penguin’s Wedding’. Remember the monkeys wedding of our childhood - rain and sunshine? Well, we encountered snow and sunshine instead.
We board the ship at 16h00 tomorrow [Tuesday] afternoon for our great adventure. We are ready to go to a restaurant in town called Maria Lola. As I sign off at eight o’clock in the evening with no glimmer of sunset, I look at the clock on my Mac see that it is 00:58 in South Africa. I now understand why the curtains are such a heavy brocade.
Till next time.
